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Lincoln 1301 continues to heat after power off
We recently purchased a used Lincoln 1301 Impinger (Ser. No. 3009440) that seemed to work on first inspection. However, the thermostat doesnt seem to control the temp and continues to heat with the power turned off. I’m not just referring to the 20 min fan cycle. The temp will reach 600+ until you pull the plug. My initial thought is the contractor but i think it’s rare for NO contractor to fail closed. I’m not a service tech, it have a fair amount of experience with electronics. Any ideas?
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49 Replies
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Have you checked power on both sides of the contactor when you have it powered off?
Sounds like a auction special. The controls maybe bad and they wired the contactor so when they test for a few minutes it looks like it works and you get more money.
You should call a service company before you burn your store down.
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I haven’t tested the the contactor yet. I’ll check the continuity tomorrow. Just to clarify, this isn’t in our store. It is merely a back up oven and is currently in my workshop. Nothing looks to have been tampered with in the electronics panel, so i believe it’s an actual electrical failure. Just not sure what.
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When you say you have a 1301 Lincoln impinger, You need to tell use the serial number. There is 6 different schematics for the 1301’s, depending on serial number. But the nice thing is all of them have the heat relay directly off the lines. So you can easily determine if has a a Hung relay. There are 2 items in this machine that always have power even when the main switch is off. One is the heater relay and the other is the cooling fan and thermostat.. There should be no power to the relay coil. If this machine has been moved around a lot and maybe stood on a side to get through a doorway, something loose in the control panel may have gotten into the relay. But being a 2 pole relay it would have to be the armature jammed.
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Serial No is in my original post. Serial Number 3009440
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So I tested the oven start relay and it is working fine. Tested the contactor and it was energized with unit turned off. I pulled out the contactor and opened it up and it looks fried. Had a new one overnighted and it looks totally different and didn’t operate the heating coil when installed. See pics.
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Tested the contactor and it was energized with unit turned off.
Was the contactor energized when unit was turned OFF…or were the contacts stuck closed when the unit was turned off?
That’s two different things.
Had a new one overnighted and it looks totally different and didn’t operate the heating coil when installed.
So the new one doesn’t work?
Your explanations are confusing.
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When the oven was plugged in to the power the heating element would begin to heat, even with the oven switched off. New contactor does not work.
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Well, if the new contactor doesn’t work, obviously more troubleshooting is needed then.
Hopefully it’s something simple.
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I guess that was a $370 plus overnight shipping cost worth of a lesson.
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Why don’t you check the secondary power to the CONTACTOR? If you had power to close the contacts then the CONTACTOR was closed. Does your model have an ETC? I believe that sends power tothe CONTACTOR, the pot switches control temp. Does the machine, when turned on, run normal and cycle temp?
There are a lot of questions a tech asks themselves when testing.
Etc p# 369465
Where did you buy the unit? Was it sold to you as a working unit? Have you verified it is wired correctly following a wire diagram?
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I purchased it from PartsTown. The description listed item as OEM.
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Did you maybe move the air pressure switch hose or is the high limit tripped from the run away.
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BTW, Your new relay looks to be a mercury displacement relay. It has to be veritcal and the right side up to work.
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Yep that’s what happened. New contactor works, however the heating element is still heating up without the power switch turned on. When power switch is on, the heating element does not respond to temperature dial setting.
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Checking if there’s power going to the coil of the contactor when the unit is off would be the first thing to check.
I’ve seen contactors welded together before, it happens, especially if they are undersized for the load.
How is the new one not working? Is there no power to the coil? Is it the wrong contactor with the wrong coil voltage?
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I had inadvertently unhooked the air pressure switch hose. With that problem resolved, the new contactor does work, however the heating element is still heating up without the power switch turned on. When power switch is on, the heating element does not respond to temperature dial setting.
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Do these things, in this order:
Remove unit from power.
Remove both fuses, F1 and F2.
On the back of the oven, remove the cover that’s over the motor- it’s a little complicated but do it.
Trace the 2 wires from the element- they *have* to go to the top (or bottom, I forget) of your new contactor. No where else and no other wires from anywhere connect to those terminals.
It they look proper, you have a stuck contactor. Disconnect those 2 wires from the contactor, insulate. Apply power to the unit (which still has no fuses in place).
Get back to us with results. 🙂
By any chance you didn’t mount the new contactor upside-down, did you?
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